perfection for a wandering soul

as the afternoon bled into the evening, we made our daily trip in the pick-up truck down that same winding road. packed 3 tight in the small cab, windows cracked and heater on. the bed full of cedar planks and an assortment surf boards and damp wetsuits.
it's different on the reservation today. there's a cool winter breeze and a fresh new hour of daylight. but today instead of going strait we turned right. a new road. cows, grass and electric fences. this was our attempt at avoiding the customs of one local native who keeps a watchful eye on this private pointbreak rarely surfed by anyone other than us three. the rumor was that we had an in through a connection of my buddies old family friend. driving down the bumpy farm road we came to an old faded house that sat at the end of the property. an old man, weathered like the land he lived on came out to the truck. we proceeded with introductions and jokes of son's buying useless trucks. he pointed us north to park next to a a newer white trailer at the end of the dirt road. it was on. our smiles grew in childlike form. as we walked over the logs brought in by old winter storms. our eyes danced to the sight of head high barreling sets of long machine like walls held up by soft offshore winds. wetsuits still wet from the day before we changed like bandits. each wave getting better as the hours went on. mountains and eagles watching us as we took wave after wave down the mile long point.
you see, today i realized how alive i was. myself and my two newest of best friends sharing in the perfection, each chasing different moments and feelings through each passing second. smiles still childlike and sharp we sketched our own versions of nirvana in our memories. and as the night went on and the sun fell west i honestly can say i had the best time of my life for those bleeding three hours of absolute perfection. grateful and weathered. happy and in bloom. time froze in my present mind and each little frame filled in this wandering brain. left for only my tired and aging mind to view in memory until the day i die. thank you for taking me surfing joe sketcher raby 11 years ago. my life has changed forever because of you and i'm excited to share it and pass it on with my new friends up here. RIP. your presence was felt today. i can still see you cheering me on and giving me waves. i'm doing my very best to carry on your energy and selflessness.